Our friends, Marta and Francesc, invited us to spend the weekend with them just before we flew back. They have a condo on the Costa Brava a couple hours north of Barcelona. We took the train to Barcelona and stopped by their new apartment on Carrer Balmes. They had it remodeled and Francesc added a few touches of his own.
We left Barcelona late in the afternoon and arrived in S'Agaro after dark. Francesc is a great cook and prepared us a Catalan tortilla for dinner. A tortilla in Catalunya is similar to a potato quiche but with not quite so many eggs. It's prepared on the stovetop, as are most traditional Catalan dishes. It was very good.
The next morning we headed up the coast. It was drizzling rain but that didn't dampen our spirits. The countryside in northern Catalunya is much different from where we live. It's much lusher and greener because they get a lot more rain. It reminds me a little of the Po River valley in Italy.
We stopped for coffee in a sweet little town and walked down to the beach. There was practically nobody out due to the rain and it was fun having the place to ourselves. I forgot how much fun it can be to get out and walk in the rain.
The next stop was Cap Creus just north of Cadaques. It's the easternmost point of Spain and the views out over the Med are spectacular. There is working lighthouse and Francesc told us it was once a major smuggling area. There is a restaurant and bar next to the lighthouse that's packed with tourists in the summer. Francesc suggested we eat at a little place he knows in Cadaques. We took a winding, scenic road into town.
On the way, we stopped at Salvador Dali's house. It's on a little cove outside Cadaques. He and his wife bought a small house many years ago and gradually expanded it. Many of his paintings are influenced by the Costa Brava. We didn't go in because reservations are required so we'll have to go back!
We went on to the restaurant and had a wonderful paella for four. Afterward, we took a stroll through Cadaques. The rain had let up a little and it was a very pleasant walk around the old fishing town. They have an impressive cathedral there with an incredibly ornate, gilded altarpiece.
We drove on to Sant Feliu (town next to S'Agaro) and had some coffee and looked around. There is a big church/fortress there that's very interesting and a lovely corniche. Afterward, it was back to the condo for a light supper and some lively conversation.
Sunday dawned fresh and clear. We walked down to the beach and around the peninsula on the north side of town. There is a deluxe hotel called Hostal de la Gavina that takes up most of the peninsula. It's pretty fancy and Francesc told us the Obamas have stayed there. There is a nice paved path around the peninsula that affords wonderful views of the Med and the surrounding coastline. We walked for over two hours and then home for a wonderful lunch.
Francesc prepared another fantastic meal on the stovetop. It was a chicken, clams and shrimp casserole with lots of garlic, onions and tomatoes. Delicious! By the time we finished, it was mid-afternoon and time to get ready to leave. Francesc and Marta dropped us off at the Renfe station in Passeig de Gracia for the two hour train ride home. The weekend was a perfect finish to our visit this year.
¡Gracias de Nuevo Marta y Francesc!
