On our drive back from Granada, we decided to take a different route. We headed straight north into the traditional "Old Spain" of La Mancha. On the way, we drove for over an hour through olive groves and passed through the town of Jaén. According to our book, nearly 10% of the world's olive oil is produced in this area. The topography began to level out as we drove out of Andalucía into La Mancha and began to resemble the rolling plains between Sweetwater and Snyder, Texas.
The olive groves gave way to the vineyards of Valdepenas. Valdepenas is said to contain the largest
acreage of wine grapes of any D.O. in Europe but the wines are generally not too exciting. Our destination was the famous windmills of Don Quixote in central La Mancha. I've always been a big fan of the book and sometimes feel as if I'm following in the footsteps, however unintentionally, of the protagonist.
I'll have to say it was worth the drive. The windmills are spectacular and the views are lovely. We passed through a number of quaint small towns that most tourists would never see. I've always felt that the true soul of Spain lives in the rural areas. The windmills are in really good shape and it's possible to get a guided tour if you plan ahead. We picnicked in the shade of a windmill and continued east toward the province of Valencia.
By late afternoon, we reached Requena. Susan found a hotel in a guide book and it was very comfortable. There was a church nearby but they stopped ringing the bells at 11:00 p.m. I noticed that someone had shot the heads off of all the statues on the front of the church but I'm not sure if there is any connection. Our room looked out on a plaza and we had tapas for dinner in a café next door. We met an Irish gentleman who owns a bar in the Canary Islands and hope to visit there someday. It was just a four hour drive home the next day and we stopped for a light lunch at our favorite beach, Hospitalet d'Enfant.
Sunday, August 18, 2013
The dreaded horizontal canopy!
I'm always on the lookout for unusual, old fashioned or even crazy things people are doing in vineyards and wineries. The pictures below tell an interesting story. These vines are being grown in almost completely the opposite way than is recommended. Modern viticulture says that a VERTICAL (like a curtain) canopy optimizes fruit quality. These vines spread out over the ground like a bucket of spilled paint. The fruit is often touching the soil or almost touching.
Can you imagine pruning or harvesting a vineyard like this? Just thinking about it is giving me a back ache. The reason these vines are planted this way is because the wind in this area can be strong enough to blow over a trellis system. The wind also explains the design of the traditional houses.
There are a lot of vineyards in La Mancha. Much of the fruit goes to huge "wine factories" and is distilled into cheap brandy. That's about all it's good for.
Can you imagine pruning or harvesting a vineyard like this? Just thinking about it is giving me a back ache. The reason these vines are planted this way is because the wind in this area can be strong enough to blow over a trellis system. The wind also explains the design of the traditional houses.
There are a lot of vineyards in La Mancha. Much of the fruit goes to huge "wine factories" and is distilled into cheap brandy. That's about all it's good for.
The Alhambra
Since Susan is going home next week, we decided to take a trip to Granada and visit the Alhambra. After an eight hour drive, we stayed in a funky, late 1960s style hotel up in the hills above Granada. The hotel had a wonderful pool which is rare in this part of the world. We had reservations (mandatory) to get into the Palacio Nazaries at 9:30 a.m. but, due to a series of mis-directions and mechanical failure, we didn't get in until 11:30. I hadn't waited in line that long since Disney World.
In the end, it was worth it. The Alhambra complex is one of the great man-made wonders of the world and there is nothing else like it. The pictures really don't do it justice but you can get a rough idea. There were lots of people and, as usual around here, everyone was considerate and well behaved.
After the Alhambra, we walked through the old Arab quarter of Granada. There are narrow, winding old streets running off in all directions. It was siesta and only a few people were out. We ran into a British couple who were trying to get their car to a hotel. There was barely enough room to slide a credit card between the side windows and the walls. We tried to help but the husband was so exasperated he could hardly speak. There was nothing to be done except wait for him to calm down. I felt sorry for them because I've been in exactly the same spot.
Later in the afternoon, we visited the 14th century cathedral. It's another one of those massive piles of brick that was built after the Moors were driven out. There are fours rows of giant columns that hold up a ceiling you can barely see. Very impressive. Ferdinand and Isabel are buried in their own church around the corner. They have alabaster sarcophagi and now Susan wants one. As you know, Susan is really not one of those "keep up with Joneses" kind of people but there is something about an alabaster sarcophagus that really pushes her buttons. She's been pestering me for one for days now.
Who knew?
In the end, it was worth it. The Alhambra complex is one of the great man-made wonders of the world and there is nothing else like it. The pictures really don't do it justice but you can get a rough idea. There were lots of people and, as usual around here, everyone was considerate and well behaved.
After the Alhambra, we walked through the old Arab quarter of Granada. There are narrow, winding old streets running off in all directions. It was siesta and only a few people were out. We ran into a British couple who were trying to get their car to a hotel. There was barely enough room to slide a credit card between the side windows and the walls. We tried to help but the husband was so exasperated he could hardly speak. There was nothing to be done except wait for him to calm down. I felt sorry for them because I've been in exactly the same spot.
Later in the afternoon, we visited the 14th century cathedral. It's another one of those massive piles of brick that was built after the Moors were driven out. There are fours rows of giant columns that hold up a ceiling you can barely see. Very impressive. Ferdinand and Isabel are buried in their own church around the corner. They have alabaster sarcophagi and now Susan wants one. As you know, Susan is really not one of those "keep up with Joneses" kind of people but there is something about an alabaster sarcophagus that really pushes her buttons. She's been pestering me for one for days now.
Who knew?
Thursday, August 15, 2013
Saturday, August 10, 2013
Our estate wine is coming soon!
I'm absolutely knocked out by how wonderful our estate wine is turning out. We've been working on a label design and you can see it if you scroll down. The bottle shot is a computer mock-up so don't be alarmed by the screw cap. The final package will have a cork (really nice one) and a gold foil cap. I plan to bottle sometime in late September and there's chance it will be home by Christmas. I know that many of you have been waiting breathlessly for an announcement on the name. The fact is, this stuff is just so damn good I decided to put my own name on it. SO THERE!
Friday, August 9, 2013
Friends & Fun
We've had a lot of fun with visiting friends the past week or so. Susan's long-time friend, Holly, and Holly's long-time traveling buddy, Brent, were here for two nights. Holly and Brent spent a few days in Croatia and then took a cruise from Venice to Barcelona. They went on a Holland-America ship and had only good things to say about the cruise. Brent had traveled with them before and said they are the best in his opinion.
We took Brent and Holly to some of our favorite places. We spent an afternoon at Scala Dei and Siurana followed by dinner at the only restaurant here in El Masroig. The next day we went to the Mercat Central in Reus and had lunch at my favorite tapas place. I'm so happy Lizarran opened a branch in Reus because no one beats their tapas for flavor, creativity and presentation. I could live on their tapas. We went to the beach after lunch.
Susan went to Barcelona with Holly and Brent and spent the night. The three of them went to Sagrada Familia and Parc Guell the following day.
Our next event was a dinner party with some of our neighbors from the old neighborhood. Francesc has been in town looking after his mother, Maria. Maria had surgery last week and is recuperating well. Our other guest was Ariadna. Ariadna lived around the corner from our old house and she helped us find our present place. She is studying in Barcelona and will finish her degree next year. She speaks good English and has been a tremendous help to me.
Finally, our friends Neus and Barry from Barcelona were here for two days in celebration of Neus' birthday. It's the same as Stacie's so I got to sing twice. The dogs are still howling. We always have a great time with Neus and Barry and they have also helped us a lot. We took a hike that was recommended by Ariadna on a path down by the river. There is an old dam and what was once the village swimming hole before they built the luxe piscina.
I've been working in the vineyard almost every morning and it's looking a little better. I've got another three or four days work on my current project. We will take a road trip to Granada on Monday and return Thursday. Susan wants to see the Alhambra and I haven't been there since 1977. I'll keep you posted!
We took Brent and Holly to some of our favorite places. We spent an afternoon at Scala Dei and Siurana followed by dinner at the only restaurant here in El Masroig. The next day we went to the Mercat Central in Reus and had lunch at my favorite tapas place. I'm so happy Lizarran opened a branch in Reus because no one beats their tapas for flavor, creativity and presentation. I could live on their tapas. We went to the beach after lunch.
Susan went to Barcelona with Holly and Brent and spent the night. The three of them went to Sagrada Familia and Parc Guell the following day.
Our next event was a dinner party with some of our neighbors from the old neighborhood. Francesc has been in town looking after his mother, Maria. Maria had surgery last week and is recuperating well. Our other guest was Ariadna. Ariadna lived around the corner from our old house and she helped us find our present place. She is studying in Barcelona and will finish her degree next year. She speaks good English and has been a tremendous help to me.
Finally, our friends Neus and Barry from Barcelona were here for two days in celebration of Neus' birthday. It's the same as Stacie's so I got to sing twice. The dogs are still howling. We always have a great time with Neus and Barry and they have also helped us a lot. We took a hike that was recommended by Ariadna on a path down by the river. There is an old dam and what was once the village swimming hole before they built the luxe piscina.
I've been working in the vineyard almost every morning and it's looking a little better. I've got another three or four days work on my current project. We will take a road trip to Granada on Monday and return Thursday. Susan wants to see the Alhambra and I haven't been there since 1977. I'll keep you posted!
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